Four Basic Fur Techniques

Aug. 09, 2017

From a creative standpoint, fur techniques have advanced far beyond the traditional knee-length mink coat. Today, designers can choose from a myriad of techniques to enhance, innovate and texturize this beautiful natural material. The development of techniques such as plucking, shearing, knitting and weaving reduce the density of fur resulting in garments that are lightweight and can be worn in all seasons. Thanks to advances in processing and dyeing techniques, there are now nearly limitless possibilities for colours, textures and techniques to inspire.

从创新的角度来讲,皮草工艺已经远远脱离了传统及膝水貂大衣的范畴。今天,设计师们能够选择丰富的皮草工艺中,通过提升、创新、改变纹理等手段来利用这种美丽的天然面料。拔针、剪绒、编织等皮草工艺的发展,能够减轻皮草的厚度,从而使皮草服装更加轻盈,让一年四季穿着皮草不再是梦想。感谢现代化的皮草加工工艺以及染色技术,如今,重新染色、改变纹理以及更多令人充满创意的皮草工艺为我们带来了无穷无尽的可能性。

Four Basic Fur Techniques

It is the combination of old world techniques with new processes in the hands of inspired designers that has revolutionized the way furs looks and feels today.

正是传统的工艺加上现代技术,以及充满灵感的设计师们的巧手为我们当今的皮草带来了革命性的外观以及手感。


整皮拼接

The earliest and simplest approach to constructing a garment has been rediscovered and renewed in the hands of modern day designers. In this approach the pelt is trimmed off into a basic rectangle and is sewn around the edges, in the way a quilt is created. Of course it is certainly more complicated as today’s designs are more form fitting and shaped and this must be accommodated within the procedure.

最早、最简单的一种皮草服装的生产工艺,不过在现代设计师的手中不断被重新发现、重新发展。通过这种工艺,毛皮被剪裁成基本的长方形,沿着毛边缝制而成。当然,这种工艺已经变得更加复杂多样,因为如今的消费者要求更为合体的设计,这种工艺也必须符合这种设计的潮流。

Four Basic Fur Techniques


Letting Out 抽刀

The most technically involved and needing the greatest skill, this approach is required in order to realize more complicated and advanced designs. In the letting out process, the pelt is trimmed into a rectangle, blocked on a board, split down the center and then mathematics takes over. The technician must identify the finished length of the garment, measure the trimmed pelt and calculate how many diagonal cuts must be made to change the overall shape of that rectangle into one that has the required length. In some cases these diagonal cuts and seams done by hand will be an eighth of an inch wide! Experience, steady hands and good eyesight are all requirements if the garment is to appear virtually seamless.

这是一种从技术层面上来讲发展更最复杂、更需要精湛技艺的工艺。为了获得最复杂、最高端的设计效果往往需要采用这种工艺。在抽刀工艺的过程中,皮草先被裁成长方形,钉在一块大木板上,沿着中线裁开,然后计算过程开始了。技师必须首先了解最后完成衣服所需的长度,然后量好皮张的长度,然后计算需要裁切多少刀才能够改变这块长方形皮张的形状以获得最后完成衣服所需的长度。有时,这些对角剪裁以及手工缝制是在宽度仅为0.125英寸的皮条上操作!经验、稳定的手势以及精确的观察是完成一件无间隙的皮草服装所需的全部要素。


Another design technique is the addition of leather squares and or strips to the fur pelt. This creates a lighter weight garment and interesting patterns on the fur side of the garment. This has an additional benefit when used with longer haired furs to reduce the appearance of bulk.

另外一种设计工艺是在皮张中加入皮革方块或者细条。这种工艺可以创造出更加轻盈的服装,并且在皮草一面能能够创作出有趣的图形。如果采用的是长毛皮草,那么这种工艺可以实现的另外一种重要效果——可以使服装看上去不再那么臃肿。

Four Basic Fur Techniques


Knitting 编织

In one of the most innovative techniques, the pelt is cut in a thin strip in a circular manner from the edge. This “peel” like strand is then knit or woven in time-honored tradition. The end result is an extremely lightweight garment, easily packed and shaken out.

作为最富有创意的工艺之一,皮张从毛边开始按照圆形的方式剪裁成细条,然后通过传统的编织工艺进行编织。这种工艺做成的服装非常轻盈,折叠和展开都非常容易。


种类丰富的水貂皮、狐狸皮和野生皮,配上设计师天马行空的创意设计,以及硝皮厂出神入化、日新月异的先进技术,我们就能得到无穷无尽的美丽服装。

XINGJI FUR LTD

Add.: Building 25, Xisanzhuang Villa, No. 398, North Youyi Street, Xinhua Dist., Shijiazhuang, Hebei, China (Mainland)

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